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Size, Shape And Where to Position Your Pond



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By : Stephen Drommonsy    19 or more times read
Submitted 2010-08-25 08:03:17
Size of Your Pond:
Miniponds along the lines of half-barrels, deep sinks and small rigid liners can be used to house aquatic plants and some Glodfish, but for a proper pond which can be expected to stay clear it is best to aim for a water surface of at least 40 sq. ft. The minimum depth of water is required to be 18 inches at some point. If the surface area is 50 sq. ft or more and if you plan to have various types of fish, then a depth of 24 inches is better. For your larger ponds of several hundred sq. ft a depth of 30 inches is required.

Don’t forget a shelf is important for housing the Marginal plants which require their crowns to become covered by water - this shelf can run round part or the entire of the pond. It is required to be at least 10 inches wide and it needs to be 9 inches under the water surface.

Shape of The Pond:
Square and rectagle shapes can be created using cocrete or building blocks, and are also obtainable as rigid liners. A large a number of other shapes can be purchased as rigid liners including circles, ovals, oblongs and even triangles and irregular forms.
Using a Flexible liner it will be best to stick to a shape with gentle curves. At all costs avoid fussy shapes and sharp corners as they are not easy to produce with polythene, PVC or butyl sheeting. Both vertical and mild sloping sides might also pose problems so the very best recommendation is aim to get a 20 degree slope.

The most effective position for the pond:
Where you select to create your pond is very important. To get a worthwhile display form your Water Lillies and other aquatic plants the site ought to be shade free for no less than 5 - 6 hours throughout the day. Having said that, the location of your pond should needs to be protected from the prevailing wind avoiding scorching of young foliage along with the toppling of tall marginal plants. Overhanging trees are a significant problem. They cast shade obviously, however the hidden danger is that thier leaves fall into the pond and decompose which consequently produces salts and gases which can be harmful to the fish in addition to encouraging that unpleasant green algae to flourish.

Trees that are the most most dangerous to pond owners include Willow, Horse Chestnut, Poplar, Laburnum, Holly, Laurel and Rhododendron. Along with these there is the Cherry and Plum trees, these two trees are hosts to the Water Lily Aphid not to mention that the tree roots which themselves can damage some pond linings.
Now, besides avoiding danger spots there is also a necessity for convenience and eye-appeal. Ideally the pond sould be as close as posssible to a supply of electricity and water and also close enough to your house for that fountain or waterfall to be seen and heard. The refletion in the water should be attractive to the eye and where possible an informal pond should be sited in the lowest part of the garden.
Author Resource:- In my next article, which again will follow very soon, I will be writing about the different types of materials you can use to create your pond. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the 'gardener london' company who have given me help and advise throughout the countless years that I’ve been gardening.
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